Previously, on Offbeat Bride, I posted instructions for a complicated two-piece chocolate dice mold made using food-safe silicone. This tutorial goes in a completely opposite direction: a super-simple one-piece mold using food-safe plastic that’s vacuum molded to shape, to produce these beauties.
These instructions will also work for any other pixellated shape (made of squares), not just Tetris pieces. Please note that this is for pixellated shapes — if you want to make something that is recognizable due to pixel color, that’s a lot harder; using this technique involves having very steady hands and painting the mold, or else molding each colored section separately in colored chocolate or candy melt and assembling them after they’ve set. For simple projects, I recommend sticking to easily recognized shapes. (You can also mold things that are not square using this technique, of course; just make sure the shapes have bottoms that are flush with a flat surface, and there are no undercuts where the plastic could bend in and trap the shape.)
Vacuum molding has some interesting properties relative to silicone. It’s super-cheap per mold (materials cost: less than $2.50, even including shipping) but has a noticeable start-up cost in money or labor to get the basic equipment; whereas the silicone is $20-$120 per mold even without shipping but doesn’t require that you get anything more than a cheap paintbrush or two. This is a great technique if you expect you’ll want to make a variety of molds, or quite a few of them (got a 300-person wedding you’re trying to make favors for? Hint: don’t try it with just one mold!); if you only want one or two, the silicone may be a better approach.
What you’ll need:
- A vacuum molding table; you don’t need anything super-fancy, and you can frankly build one yourself pretty easily, but I’ll admit that I decided it not worth my time since I don’t have wood-working equipment and went ahead and bought a Kingston Mono for a bit over $125. Note: these “tables” are actually just a box that is airtight except for a bunch of holes on top and a connector to which a vacuum hose can be attached. Ideally, there will be a ledge around the outside that your frame (see next item) can sit on so that the plastic is flush to the surface when set down.
- A vacuum-forming frame that will hold your plastic, sized for your table; plus clips to hold the plastic inside. Mine is just two simple aluminum rectangles with ordinary large binder clips; it came with the table. Also a set of risers (aka pieces of wood) that the frame can sit on in the oven to give the plastic room to sag.
- A vacuum cleaner. The ordinary home kind works just fine, although I found that cleaning the filter out helped noticeably. (The table manufacturer recommended removing the bag, but since I have a bagless, that wasn’t much use.)
- An oven. It’s not necessary, but it speeds things up dramatically and helps you get less wrinkly molds.
- A heat gun. I used a 4-setting $60 thing from Home Depot, and have been very happy, but my $20 embossing gun works too, just more slowly.
- Food-safe plastic designed for vacuum forming. I used the Vivak PETG Food-Safe .30″ plastic, which is about $2/sheet for the large size I’m using.
- A set of square glass tiles. I got mine from Home Depot, and the entire tray ran me about $10. This is not the smallest size they had, but one up from that; but really, this will work no matter what size you get. I got glass rather than ceramic so that the sides would be smooth, which was probably doubly wise; removing the tiles from the mold was hard enough as it was! If you use something with a less than smooth surface, you probably want to rub them with a non-toxic wax or something similar before using, to make them easy to remove. Keep in mind also that the mold will capture all irregularities in the original object!
- Packing tape or laminating paper or some similar easy-to-cut sticky sheet.
- Scissors or an x-acto knife.
- Oven mitts or hot pads, if using the oven.
First, make yourself a set of Tetris pieces by carefully placing the tiles onto the sticky side of the tape, touching each other. They’ll be floppy when you pick them up, but that’s fine; you just want to make sure they’ve got a nice tight fit when they’re on a flat surface. Once you’re happy with them, trim the excess tape off with scissors or an x-acto knife.
Next, you’ll want to lay them out on your vacuum forming table. Because I’ve got a nice big one, all the pieces fit in one batch; if you have a smaller one, you’ll want to do this in multiple batches. Be sure to leave a fairly good distance between the pieces; the plastic will sag down between them, but it will be faster, neater, and less likely to produce ugly folds if there’s more distance.
A glass black partial wall becomes a eight foot tall video game art piece.
Next, make sure you’re ready to do your vacuum forming. This involves several steps, although all of them are actually pretty easy:
- Preheat your oven to the appropriate temperature for softening your plastic. For mine, this was just over 300 F.
- Attach your vacuum cleaner’s hose to the table. I used packing tape. Sure, it’s not a perfect binding, but it’s close enough. Be sure to test the stability of your table/vacuum combo before putting hot things onto it; mine needs one hand on the hose at all times to keep the vacuum from pulling the table onto the floor.
- Place a sheet of vacuum forming plastic between the two halves of the frame and use clips to hold the frame together.
- Place the risers in the oven, spaced so that you can easily put the frame on them when the time comes. I like to test this while the oven is heating.
(If you’re not using the oven, you can obviously skip the oven-related steps. But I do recommend it, you get a much smoother design and it takes half the time!)
The first stage of the vacuum forming is very simple. Put the frame in the oven and let it heat until the plastic starts to sag noticeably below the frame; about two-ish inches for my size of plastic. This is why you needed the risers; if the plastic touches the oven rack, it’s likely to stick and eventually burn. (No picture of this because this is a fast step! It takes 60-90 seconds for the plastic to sag noticeably, but once it does, it’s fast and you’ll want to be ready to move.)
Pull it out and immediately place it over your table, aligning it before lowering it so that the plastic hits your tiles; otherwise, it will drag them out of alignment and wrinkle. I speak from experience, here. Note that this is easier said than done; remember that the plastic is sagging? Yeah. If you get it a little bit off and drag things, you can put the plastic back in the oven to warm up slightly and fix the alignment, but it’s a pain, and wrinkles just don’t come out.
As soon as the plastic is draped over the table and tiles, turn on the vacuum and let it run quickly. Once the plastic has stopped visibly moving, turn it off so it doesn’t overheat. You’ll probably have a shape that kinda-sorta matches your masters, but has a lot of excess air and loose draping:
You can hopefully see here that there’s a gentle curve from the top of the shapes to the table, without clinging to the sides; and there are even some small wrinkles on top of the shape. (The big wrinkle? That’s from placing it badly. They’re ugly and leave a wrinkle on your final product, sadly; but thankfully, not a huge one. It basically looks like somebody dribbled a line of chocolate across it. This is much worse on glass-looking designs like this than on more texture pieces; this is why to be very careful about placing the plastic initially.) We clearly couldn’t cast nice-looking chocolates in this. Therefore, it’s time to bring in the big guns:
What we’ll be doing here is aiming the heat gun at smallish sections of the plastic (a few square inches in the middle of nowhere, or one two-inch stretch along tile that’s problematic; the larger it is, the longer it will take and the less reliable I’ve found it, but too small and you get annoyed) at a time, then vacuum forming them tightly. If you have a variable-heat gun, I found 580F to be a good temperature; I’d expect anything in the 600 range to work nicely.
Hold the gun a few inches back from the plastic and aim it until you start to see the plastic shimmer and then droop. The drooping is important — I found that slightly slumping but not actively drooping plastic molded much less tightly, took way longer, and heated the vacuum up rather a lot. Then turn on your vacuum for a quick burst. It doesn’t take more than a second or two; you will see a *very* visible and obvious shrinking.
Again, stop when the plastic stops moving so your vacuum doesn’t overheat. Repeat on the next section, and so forth. You may find yourself coming back to the first sections you do later, when you’ve fixed more and you see imperfections; taking multiple passes seems to be perfectly routine, but it goes faster than you might think even being perfectionist. As a general rule, starting from the middle of your mold (or a given piece) and working your way out tends to reduce your chances of large wrinkles; if you catch them early, you can often chase them off of the edge of the piece with your heat gun.
When you finish, your mold should be much, much tighter to the master, like so:
See how much sharper those angles are? If it weren’t for the shimmer, you might not even know the plastic was there.
Now, let the plastic cool thoroughly. It’s actually pretty quick. Remove the masters, and you have a mold! I found that this was much easier said than done, though. For one thing, this really is vacuum-molded, and tight; those masters won’t be easy to remove unless they’re actually sloped. For another, the glass tiles sometimes had heat-stress issues, presumably from the heat gun, and would crack slightly when being removed, with part of the glass actually sticking to the inside of the mold and needing to be very carefully removed. I found the best solution to both of these problems, odd though it is, is to remove the tiles while running the mold under water. Flex the mold slightly, push out, let the water get into the crack, then work them out, repeat. I often removed the masters in pieces; you can always reassemble them easily if need be.
And there you have it! A mold suitable for making chocolate Tetris pieces. Wash it out, let it dry, and you can fill it with chocolate for delicious gaming pieces. If you want brightly colored favors, you can use candy coloring in white chocolate, luster dust for a metallic look, colored cocoa butter, or plain old candy melt you can find at your local craft store. These molds can also be used for soap and any other low-temperature molding you want to do.
Comments on Make Tetris chocolate molds using tile
I doubt I would make the mold, but I’d certainly pay you for one! We are huge Tetris lovers here and I think this is one of the neatest ideas!
Feel free to drop me a line via my website; this isn’t here as an ad, so I prefer not to use their comment threads for business stuff, but I do sell molds when there’s interest. 🙂
I wasn’t expecting a response but thank you! I just fully appreciate your creativity. 🙂
I totes have that heat gun!! Pretty awesome idea…might have to do this…
This is an awesome project! The tiles can be arranged in various ways, which helps reveal someone’s creativity. It’s a little too complicated for me, because I’m not good with the whole creating things with my own hands, but it’s definitely worth trying.