By: Tomi Tapio K – CC BY 2.0I was wondering, how on earth you move with an outdoor cat? In our current home, we leave the window open and she comes and goes as she pleases. However, we’re looking to move to an apartment about four hours away. She doesn’t adapt to change well (was hoping to somehow have her asleep during the drive), but I know that a lot of outdoor cats try and find their way back to their old home.
We were thinking of transitioning her to an indoor cat, at least for a while, but she’s never even used a litter box before. When, if ever, will it be okay to let her out again? -Kirstin
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Comments on How on earth do you move with an outdoor cat?
I just moved with my indoor when it’s cold out/outdoor when it’s nice cat and my method goes like this: Set up cat litter and feeding/cozy, sleep spaces in the new house as soon as possible. Feeding your cat as soon as possible from dishes they are familiar with is good.
As soon as I’m able with my cat I take her out on her lead (she’s a big cat and has a harness) to get a good smell of things (my cat, thankfully, gets used to wearing her harness after about half an hour and will behave normally; for that first half hour though she sulks and mopes like it’s her job). This gives a good sense of what direction she will try to run in (she pulls the lead).
Then for a day or two I let her out without the lead but follow her from a small distance so she can smell everything again and leave her scent all around the property. When she wants to go back home I make her lead the way a few times to make sure she knows which door is the right one.
Hope everything here helps and the kitty moving proves to be the least stressful part!
I have two cats, one who was an indoor/outdoor at one time. Until he disappeared for two weeks and came back with a busted leg. After he recuperated he was strictly indoor and has been for the last ten years. The other cat was shoved outdoors with no care until I took him, he does escape out every so often, and has to be caught or coaxed back in. We moved across state three years ago with both cats, and across town several years before that. They adapt, especially if kept in a room for a couple of days, fed and with a litterbox. Most cats will prefer one, as long as it is cleaned every day. (Really, would you want to use one if it wasn’t?) It’s just safer to keep them in, especially in the spring with all the baby birds! (Now if I could just get one of our dogs to leave them alone!)
Another vote for transitioning to an indoor lifestyle. In addition to being safer for them and wildlife, it’s also an issue of courtesy for me.
We live in a pretty high density suburban hellhole of a neighborhood, and I’m pretty sure that everyone (but us) has at least 3 outdoor cats. They stalk the house, pee, and otherwise drive my well-adjusted and happy indoor-only kittehs absolutely freaking nuts. In turn, said well-adjusted indoor-only kittehs take their interloper frustrations out on one another, generally at 3am, on top of our sleeping personages. They only do that when a cat is stalking the house.
Strange cats stalking the backyard also drive my 2 dogs insane. Being awakened at, again, 3 or 4am to a chorus of baying beagle and barking shepherd/collie is, shall we say, inappropriately invigorating at that hour.
Suffice it to say, as someone who raised an indoor-only cat from kitten hood and successfully transitioned an escape artist outdoor stray, I find “but my cat is soooooooooooooo unhappy inside!” to be some serious weaksauce. If your cat is unhappy indoors, it’s probably because they’re bored. So do something to improve their quality of life. And, honestly, if you can’t be bothered to do that, you probably don’t need to have a cat–or any pet, for that matter. Cats need stimulus, preferably within the context of hunt-play. That does not need to come from being outside, actually hunting. It can be accommodated via you actually interacting with your pet.
Because I’m sort of sick of being awakened at all hours in order to accommodate someone else’s lack of initiative.
With a parent in the Defence force, I moved a lot as a kid, and have moved a lot as an adult, most of those moves have involved moving with a cat.
The car ride will be stressful for them, but having a towel or blanket in the cat cage that smells of you can help relieve the stress somewhat.
Every time we moved we kept the cats inside for at least 2 weeks. They weren’t always the happiest, but when one of them accidentally escaped he went missing for a week, so we kept up the 2 week rule with every other move. After 2 weeks, we started letting them out during the day while someone was home. Once they got their bearings, it was no problem! One of the cats moved many times and he was always fine. He also hated using the litter box, and NEVER used it normally, prefering to go outside, but even he would suck it up and use the litter when he was desperate.
Moving the poop to the tray if they go elsewear is a good tip, the smell helps them realise they are supposed to go in there. Also maybe using dirt in the litter box so it is a bit more familiar to the cat.
There will always be a bit of stress initially, but that will wear off as the cat settles in.
I have no experience with an outdoor/indoor kitty move but I do have experience traveling with my kitty (we used to fly across the country 2-3 times a year when I visited my family. Since it’s only a 4 hour drive, that’s pretty doable.
Here’s what I did:
1) Take away food the night before travel. This will suck if your cat is a piggy like mine but it does reduce the chance of accidents.
2) My kitty pretty much went into stress shutdown when traveling (we have spent 24 hours traveling before due to snow storms). You can try offering water but your kitty may not be interested.
3) Definitely agree to put a familiar blanket, shirt, etc in the carrier.
4) If your cat has not been in the car before, I’d recommend keeping the cage closed. You do not want your kitty to freak out in the middle of the drive and claw you or get under the pedals.
5) If you plan to let your kitty out of the car for stretch/bathroom breaks, get a harness and leash and give your kitty time to get used to them before the trip. A harness is MUCH harder to get out of and larger kitties can use doggy harnesses. My tubby kitty has a very adjustable harness so she still fits.
Once you arrive, I recommend putting kitty in a smaller, quiet space to start. The bathroom is not where you want your kitty (we looked after a friend’s kitten and had to stash him in the bathroom, apparently it’s hard to pee if you’re a dude and there’s a kitty wrapped around your ankles). But give them a space that is theirs, set up litter, food and water in that space, and let kitty adjust. Put them in the litter box, show them food and water, and just let them hide if they need to. When they are ready to explore more, you can start letting them through the house, just make sure that safe space is still accessible.
As for indoor/outdoor, I’d just get a feel for your new living area. If there’s a balcony, just consider if your kitty can jump out and whether they would be able to get back up/inside. If there are screens and your kitty will not be going outdoors, you may want to trim kitty’s claws. It can take some practice but may reduce the screen damage if your kitty decides it’s going out.
When I lived in Montreal, I was told about the fact that there were people picking up cats found outdoors (or offering to pet-sit) and taking those kitties for testing purposes. Also be aware of licensing requirements in your new home. Your kitty may need to be registered with the city/town if they go outside and may be required to have ID. Definitely chip or tattoo your kitty if they hate their collar.
Hm, she does like to claw at screens. We have a metal screen door at the house that she plucks on when she wants to be let in when she knows the dogs aren’t around.
My experience with cats is that they tend to get the idea of a new place being home within a few days, though I agree that a week or two is probably safer. We try to supervise our cats’ first few trips out in a new area, until we feel like they’ve gotten the idea of where we live. What you said about your cat staying near home did resonate with me as a possible indication that she might stay very close to your new home as well.
On the indoor/outdoor thing, I think cats are really different in their needs and abilities. My family includes 4 cats, one of whom absolutely needs to be outside a lot of the time for his mental and emotional health. Another was an outdoor cat in the past, but now just wants to stay inside where it’s warm. One of our cats does need some extra attention and supervision if he’s going to be safe (and not wreck things) outside, so he ends up staying in if we’re not able to provide that. We’re pretty protective of our cats, but I find that we’re able to pretty well assess each cat’s outdoor-safety skills based on knowing them. I think you are the best person to judge what will work for your cat.
I did also notice a couple of things you said that I think might make the move easier. One is that she’d be the only cat in your new home – one of our cats became much more indoors of her own accord when we moved to a house where she just had more space to get away from the other cats. That’s not to say that your cat will or should become indoor-only, but I think it might make staying in for any length of time a lot easier. The other is that it sounds like maybe you’ve already done some of the moving – the absolute hardest part of moving across state lines with 4 cats was dealing with all of them hiding on moving day. (Or I might have read your comment wrong – if you are packing boxes and your cat up all at once, I suggest patience and confining her early in the process.)
I second using Feliway (you can also get it in a spray-on form, which is great for carriers), and keeping her in the carrier the entire trip. We often try to have a human who’s not driving hang out with the cat(s) for car trips, but that’s not always possible, and I think the cats basically hate it no matter what anyway. The second hardest part of moving for us was the drive. Settling into the new place was really not that bad.
Oh, and on collars and microchips – I am a big fan of both. Microchips are great for when the cat inevitably pulls their collar off. What has worked best for us in terms of collars has been the clippy-type safety collars (rather than the sort of ball-shaped ones). The cats can take them off if they really want to, but they’re less likely to just fall off. I do find that if they do stay on they have to be checked periodically to make sure they haven’t fused shut :p . Collars with jingle-bells on them can give wildlife a slight edge from hunter cats, and collars with reflective strips can be great safety tools for cats who are out at night.
I’m not sure which comment you saw (there’s quite a few on here!) but she’s never moved before. She found us back in 2005 and has been indoor/outdoor since. She tends to sleep and eat inside, and spend the day outside if its nice. Sometimes in the summer she sleeps outside a couple nights at a time which worries me!
As for the car ride, my by-then-husband would most likely be making the drive with me, so one of us could hold her.
I don’t know where you live, but here it cost 7 dollars to get our cats/doggie microchipped. Call around to different vets and see, some of them offer specials. Microchipping is a wonderful thing…I’m a shelter volunteer and I’ve seen many happy microchip-caused reunions that would not have happened otherwise.
I had an outdoor/indoor cat that we had to make indoor-only after he contracted FIV from a cat fight. He protested at first, but it was best for him. He frequently got into fights with other cats, so I didn’t want him spreading it around to others or getting infections with a compromised immune system. We did have to keep an eye on him when going in and out, because sometimes he would try to sneak out.
Every cat I’ve ever known will instinctively use a litter box, no training required. They like to bury their poo. I doubt you would have too much of a problem. If you’re worried I’d maybe keep him in one room for a couple of days with the box and make sure he uses it.
We got very lucky. We adopted our cat from the local humane society and he was born a stray. He was about 6 months old when we got him and extremely fiesty. We still have not declawed him for fear of kitty depression. I think he would prefer to be outside on his own but at age 3 now he is very used to having the run of the house. Most cats understand litter boxes and shouldn’t have a big problem learning to use it as they like to cover their messes with dirt. Sometimes we let Remy out on the porch (where we have coated wire put up for the dog) and he will sneak around like he’s hunting but he comes right back in when we call.
No, we haven’t moved yet. My sister took my room at my parent’s house though, and the kitty had a hard time adjusting to going through the next room over, which only makes me worry more about moving her to a completely different location.
As for your kitty, would some tranquilizers from the vet work? Having him sleep the whole way sounds like it might be a little easier on all of you.
My family and I adopted a kitten from the shelter but that was 4 years ago. She is an indoor/outdoor cat. We are thinking of moving to a bigger apartment that actual has a really big yard! I’m also thinking of bringing the stray cat with me as well as I have kinda adopted him into the family plus I would hate to leave him behind since he was so skinny before we started to feed him! But I figured I would do this in small steps. We will bring our cat first into the new place and like she was as a kitten get her use to the house first, once she adjusted we smothered her paws in butter and let her go outside. I was really nervous letting her out the first time so I basically smothered the ground in butter so she knew which house it was. It worked! So now I’m hoping it’ll work again if we do decide to move! As for the stray cat he is mostly an outdoor cat so with him it’s just doing the butter technique and showing him where his food bowl will be.
I moved with an outdoor cat, a total free spirit whom I inherited from neighbours who first neglected him and then left him behind when they moved. He had lived in the area for over 10 years and I had to move house with him. He had never been inside, from my knowledge. Anyway, I kept him in the laundry for two days, draped a blanket over a chair and put some bedding underneath it so he had somewhere to hide, and put grass on top of the kitty litter, which he actually used. I fed him and gave him lots of pats. He was relatively relaxed with that set up after a while. After two days he went outside in the morning and bolted under the house, where he stayed. I left food by the entrance, which was eaten in the early evening, and by 10pm he emerged for a pat. He seems to have accepted the new place as his own in a short time frame!
I honestly did it accidentally the first time- I was cat sitting, and they gave me a blanket from their house to have a familiar scent around. I draped it over a folding chair, thinking the cat would sleep on top of the chair. But he stayed in the little cat cave underneath.
I think creating a hiding place is worth it because almost all cats want to hide when in a new location, and this way you’ll still know where they are.
Yes, my cat was instantly more relaxed when he had a place to hide (first under the chair, and then under the house). They are my major tips – somewhere to hide if indoors, and grass on the kitty litter if puss is not used to a litter tray
Kirsten, have you moved yet? Please drop me an email, I am the Kitty Help Desk! I can help you… Plus I know ALL about moving outdoor cats, I have managed feral cat colonies and occasionally they have to be moved… there’s a whole protocol!
Let me know if you still need advice! Even if kitty is still at Moms… I can help with that too.
I have not. Life’s taken quite a few turns, but we’re finally ready to move into a place. However, we’ve decided to hold off on pets, at least for a while, until we can get on our feet a little more. Kitty will stay at my mom’s at least until we can afford a pet deposit and things like kitty food and litter.
Hi – I am hoping you can give me some cat advice. My elderly uncle started feeding a stray cat a few years ago. The original cat has since moved on or died, but her 2 offspring, 1 grand-kitten, and another young stray are still around. They fall somewhere between semi-feral and outdoor cats. My uncle recently moved to a nursing home. His house is on the market and, once sold, will probably be torn down. The area is becoming commercial, so there aren’t neighbors we can ask to look after the cats. I have been feeding the cats daily since he went into the nursing home, but I need to find a new place for them soon. All 4 of the cats will let me touch them when they are hungry and 2 of them are very friendly and will let me pick them up. I don’t know where to take them – I have considered adopting 1 or 2, but I have 2 terrier mixes who do not like cats, so I think it might be too much for all of our nerves to bring them to my house. I also feel bad about taking them to animal control. Even though it is a no-kill shelter, I think it would be horrible for these cats to live the rest of their lives in cages. Any ideas?
Hi June! Can you email me at juliekgk at yahoo? That will be easier to advise going forward!
#1) go on Alley Cat Allies page and find an advocate near you. That person will be able to give advice based on where you live and may have connections to local spay neuter groups etc. You want to look for Trap Neuter Return or TNR programs in your city. They know how to handle these situations. You’ll want to get these kitties fixed for their next step, and that’s where to do it.
#2) Could the kitties be outdoor cats at your home? If you own, this is a possibility. Or if you were to adopt them as indoor, there are many links online to “how to introduce cats to dogs” that could help them live in harmony.
#3) Scour your friends list (Facebook is good for this) and identify anyone with connections to horses, stables, barns, farms, garden centers, warehouses etc… These places sometimes are willing to take on a “working cat” or two. Mousers, essentially. Let them know the situation and see if anyone would be willing to help you by taking these cats. They’ll need to be fixed though to seal the deal. Post it on facebook (with a photo!), share it around, ask friends to share with their rural pals. See if your network can help.
Definitely connect with Alley Cat Allies (alleycat.org) and local TNR groups to get direction on services in your area. And email me if you want too!
we moved our once mean blood drawing feral cat (took 2-1/2 yrs to pet him, now he is a lover boy!). he lived outdoors w/a cat door in our basement window (so separate from our 2 indoor cats). only used the litterbox once in 3 years. initially TNR-ed when feral (was going to be killed by vets because too mean/feral) since then goes ballistic if confined, tried to be crate or wonders into a new room by mistake. w/determination o the day of our move, I banketed him & got him to the vet (2nd scheduled vet apt, 1st one no success). surprisingly they took off the leather gloves and he did good! (so terrified he didn’t move or hiss but peed poor thing). released him in the new house laundry room (coved the window w/cardboard so he wouldn’t freak out and try to claw his way though although not possible). closed the door and pluged in night lights. we also brought his old smelly basement sofa from the old house he hid under it the whole time and his original feeding/watering bowls and blankets. a day later success! he ate/drank and used the litterbox! every night I would lay on the sofa, he would come out scared low to the ground and lay on my chest (are old established routine in the old house I would watch tv w/him in this manner). 2 days later he did pee once all over the sofa so I ripped off all the cushioning and covered the frame w/comforters. 2 months later he is fully happy and integrated w/my 2 cats! that’s another story/process in itself. hope this story helps.
I have too mature cats a male and female and they keep gettin on the cars bec ause they are cold. My parents want to get rid of them. I dont know what to do. Plus im moving soon and I want to know how to move with two outdoor cats not just one
#1 take them with you! Don’t abandon them when you move, they wont know how to survive without you if you’ve been feeding them. Thanks for considering taking them along!
#2 Where do you live? Make them an easy shelter from the cold and that will keep them off the cars. You can make one from a shipping cooler or rubbermaid tub. As little as $15 total and super easy.
Check out Alley Cat Allies (www.alleycat.org) for a million tips on caring for, moving, and sheltering outdoor cats!!! They are the nation’s leading authority on caring for alley cats, so their site answers a lot of questions! Feel free to email me directly too, I can help with your questions and walk you through stuff, I’ve been doing this for years!
Thanks for caring for the little dudes.
Julie
juliekgk at yahoo
My parents’ cats won’t use the litterbox, but one of them was barred from going outside for a few days after some procedures at the vet, so we put dry leaves on top of the litter in the box, and that did the trick. Accident free.
I have somewhat of a different dilemna. We live in a very secluded area on 5 acres in a country setting and unfortunately many people believe if they drop their cats off here, they will live happily ever after. With that being said, my family has taken care of these 6 orphans and they have adopted us for over a year now and they are outdoor cats that we have spayed and chipped . We are now moving but only up the road. While I’m happy about the new place being in about the same type of setting, I worry they will return to our previous house. Hopefully I can take a few of the suggestions I’ve read here and apply them. I’m just concerned.
Yes, I realize that indoor cats live longer lives than outdoor cats. There’s just no way I would keep six cats indoors. I really wish people would be responsible and take their ‘unwanted’ cats to shelters. Do they not realize it’s cruel to leave them on their own regardless of their ability to hunt? I find this behavior plain stupid. That’s why the feral cat population is overwhelmingly high. Thanks in advance for any suggestions as to how I will be able to keep them relatively close. BTW, our new place has a “doggie door” attached to the garage but unfortunately my laundry room is there. I’m thinking it may be a good start to help them begin to adapt.
Sandy, do a google search on “relocating feral cats” and you’ll find some good info. Alley Cat Allies is a great place to start.
The #1 thing is to confine them at the new location for at LEAST 2 weeks. This can be in a cage, kennel, garage, shed, basement, whatever. Obvs make sure they are safe, have no escape routes, and are protected from temperature extremes and weather.
The 2-4 week confinement helps them re adjust their internal compass to the new location as “home/shelter/food” instead of trying to run back to the old place. They’ll be crabby for a few weeks being on lockdown but they’ll thank you in the end! And thanks for taking on other people’s cast aways and even taking them with you! You’re a true gem!
A stray cat showed up in our backyard a year ago and we started feeding it. After a few months, when she was comfortable around us to let us pet her, we catnapped her and took her to the vet to get spayed and vaccinated. She had to stay in the house for a few days after that to recover (we couldn’t keep her inside indefinitely because our indoor cats were not having it). We put a litter box in the room, something she had never even seen before let alone used, and she used it naturally with no problem whatsoever. So I wouldn’t worry about that aspect. Cats just get litter boxes.
Tryinig to find some guidance on a situation that has arisen at the worst time. I am a cat lover, but at present have building works, trying to sell flat and make a 6hr drive to move from a suburban UK gardens location to a totally different country situation. For the last few months I have been adopted by a huge tabby tom, which now sleeps in my flat (keeping a window pane from being replaced for him to have access via the conservatory and keeping my door ajar and freezing!) so it can have the freedom to range its territory at night. No-one near here will look after it and it seems to be adapted to humans, sleeping on allocated cover on the end of my camp bed, allowing limited pick-ups, and does not spray inside etc. I have taken it to the vet in a borrowed vets carrier, after familiarising it with placing its meals down the end but as soon as I shut the door it howled, scrummed violently and damaged its scarred nose in the process). He is king of the local patch and copes with foxes etc, but need to eventually take it to an alien environment with badgers, moles, sheep, sheep dogs, farm cats and cows. The drive and keeping him in will be extremely hard. He has never used a dirt box and hates being shut in. I am told that harnessing may help, but what best one which will not be fought off or possibly freaking him out prior to a fretful journey and losing his current “kingdom”. Has anyone had a similar experience or move/total change of environment (at least vehicle free)?
There really is no right answer. I transitioned my outdoor cat to indoor after a move and I know he is not as happy. He has gained weight and sleeps 24/7 unless I play with him. I got him a playmate and he tolerates the kitten. My place is small but a cat palace with hammocks, birds, 5 windows with huge ledges. He is so sweet to me even though he was pure feral 7 years ago. If I’m in a chair he’s on my lap. In the morning he doesn’t wake me but comes closer to my face as it approaches 8am. When making food in the AM he lets the kitten go ape shit and politely waits. But the odds are he’d be dead by now if left outside. Before I moved 2 years ago he was fighting another cat moving into his territory and crossing a 4 lane street to hunt in an inner city garden. It really is the choice between a life that is 10/10 excitement or a life that is a 2 out of 10 excitement but with good food and belly rubs. There’s a case to be made for both. Your guy will calm down. They all do. Do Not do the harness. It does far more harm than good. If it were an indoor cat from birth that’s different. The trouble is that you can’t ask the cat what he wants. Outdoor cats don’t die of old age. Ever. But if you’re going to keep it in you’ve gotta keep windows open even when it’s uncomfortable. They need to smell the air. They are prey animals. It helps them feel secure. I put tons of birdseed outside so there’s CatTV. I screwed up on the food. I cut it back but not enuf. He gained weight SO fast. I’d say take him with you. He’s an athlete retiring early. He’s had his time as a gladiator now time live a life of heat blankets and canned food. He will howl for a while. If it’s an apartment building I used to do 2am walks on different floors. The smells were interesting. Get all the toys you can but know it won’t be enough. Would you want to live an adrenaline filled life to 30 or retire at 20 and die at 90.
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I just moved with my indoor when it’s cold out/outdoor when it’s nice cat and my method goes like this: Set up cat litter and feeding/cozy, sleep spaces in the new house as soon as possible. Feeding your cat as soon as possible from dishes they are familiar with is good.
As soon as I’m able with my cat I take her out on her lead (she’s a big cat and has a harness) to get a good smell of things (my cat, thankfully, gets used to wearing her harness after about half an hour and will behave normally; for that first half hour though she sulks and mopes like it’s her job). This gives a good sense of what direction she will try to run in (she pulls the lead).
Then for a day or two I let her out without the lead but follow her from a small distance so she can smell everything again and leave her scent all around the property. When she wants to go back home I make her lead the way a few times to make sure she knows which door is the right one.
Hope everything here helps and the kitty moving proves to be the least stressful part!
I have two cats, one who was an indoor/outdoor at one time. Until he disappeared for two weeks and came back with a busted leg. After he recuperated he was strictly indoor and has been for the last ten years. The other cat was shoved outdoors with no care until I took him, he does escape out every so often, and has to be caught or coaxed back in. We moved across state three years ago with both cats, and across town several years before that. They adapt, especially if kept in a room for a couple of days, fed and with a litterbox. Most cats will prefer one, as long as it is cleaned every day. (Really, would you want to use one if it wasn’t?) It’s just safer to keep them in, especially in the spring with all the baby birds! (Now if I could just get one of our dogs to leave them alone!)
Another vote for transitioning to an indoor lifestyle. In addition to being safer for them and wildlife, it’s also an issue of courtesy for me.
We live in a pretty high density suburban hellhole of a neighborhood, and I’m pretty sure that everyone (but us) has at least 3 outdoor cats. They stalk the house, pee, and otherwise drive my well-adjusted and happy indoor-only kittehs absolutely freaking nuts. In turn, said well-adjusted indoor-only kittehs take their interloper frustrations out on one another, generally at 3am, on top of our sleeping personages. They only do that when a cat is stalking the house.
Strange cats stalking the backyard also drive my 2 dogs insane. Being awakened at, again, 3 or 4am to a chorus of baying beagle and barking shepherd/collie is, shall we say, inappropriately invigorating at that hour.
Suffice it to say, as someone who raised an indoor-only cat from kitten hood and successfully transitioned an escape artist outdoor stray, I find “but my cat is soooooooooooooo unhappy inside!” to be some serious weaksauce. If your cat is unhappy indoors, it’s probably because they’re bored. So do something to improve their quality of life. And, honestly, if you can’t be bothered to do that, you probably don’t need to have a cat–or any pet, for that matter. Cats need stimulus, preferably within the context of hunt-play. That does not need to come from being outside, actually hunting. It can be accommodated via you actually interacting with your pet.
Because I’m sort of sick of being awakened at all hours in order to accommodate someone else’s lack of initiative.
With a parent in the Defence force, I moved a lot as a kid, and have moved a lot as an adult, most of those moves have involved moving with a cat.
The car ride will be stressful for them, but having a towel or blanket in the cat cage that smells of you can help relieve the stress somewhat.
Every time we moved we kept the cats inside for at least 2 weeks. They weren’t always the happiest, but when one of them accidentally escaped he went missing for a week, so we kept up the 2 week rule with every other move. After 2 weeks, we started letting them out during the day while someone was home. Once they got their bearings, it was no problem! One of the cats moved many times and he was always fine. He also hated using the litter box, and NEVER used it normally, prefering to go outside, but even he would suck it up and use the litter when he was desperate.
Moving the poop to the tray if they go elsewear is a good tip, the smell helps them realise they are supposed to go in there. Also maybe using dirt in the litter box so it is a bit more familiar to the cat.
There will always be a bit of stress initially, but that will wear off as the cat settles in.
I have no experience with an outdoor/indoor kitty move but I do have experience traveling with my kitty (we used to fly across the country 2-3 times a year when I visited my family. Since it’s only a 4 hour drive, that’s pretty doable.
Here’s what I did:
1) Take away food the night before travel. This will suck if your cat is a piggy like mine but it does reduce the chance of accidents.
2) My kitty pretty much went into stress shutdown when traveling (we have spent 24 hours traveling before due to snow storms). You can try offering water but your kitty may not be interested.
3) Definitely agree to put a familiar blanket, shirt, etc in the carrier.
4) If your cat has not been in the car before, I’d recommend keeping the cage closed. You do not want your kitty to freak out in the middle of the drive and claw you or get under the pedals.
5) If you plan to let your kitty out of the car for stretch/bathroom breaks, get a harness and leash and give your kitty time to get used to them before the trip. A harness is MUCH harder to get out of and larger kitties can use doggy harnesses. My tubby kitty has a very adjustable harness so she still fits.
Once you arrive, I recommend putting kitty in a smaller, quiet space to start. The bathroom is not where you want your kitty (we looked after a friend’s kitten and had to stash him in the bathroom, apparently it’s hard to pee if you’re a dude and there’s a kitty wrapped around your ankles). But give them a space that is theirs, set up litter, food and water in that space, and let kitty adjust. Put them in the litter box, show them food and water, and just let them hide if they need to. When they are ready to explore more, you can start letting them through the house, just make sure that safe space is still accessible.
As for indoor/outdoor, I’d just get a feel for your new living area. If there’s a balcony, just consider if your kitty can jump out and whether they would be able to get back up/inside. If there are screens and your kitty will not be going outdoors, you may want to trim kitty’s claws. It can take some practice but may reduce the screen damage if your kitty decides it’s going out.
When I lived in Montreal, I was told about the fact that there were people picking up cats found outdoors (or offering to pet-sit) and taking those kitties for testing purposes. Also be aware of licensing requirements in your new home. Your kitty may need to be registered with the city/town if they go outside and may be required to have ID. Definitely chip or tattoo your kitty if they hate their collar.
Hm, she does like to claw at screens. We have a metal screen door at the house that she plucks on when she wants to be let in when she knows the dogs aren’t around.
My experience with cats is that they tend to get the idea of a new place being home within a few days, though I agree that a week or two is probably safer. We try to supervise our cats’ first few trips out in a new area, until we feel like they’ve gotten the idea of where we live. What you said about your cat staying near home did resonate with me as a possible indication that she might stay very close to your new home as well.
On the indoor/outdoor thing, I think cats are really different in their needs and abilities. My family includes 4 cats, one of whom absolutely needs to be outside a lot of the time for his mental and emotional health. Another was an outdoor cat in the past, but now just wants to stay inside where it’s warm. One of our cats does need some extra attention and supervision if he’s going to be safe (and not wreck things) outside, so he ends up staying in if we’re not able to provide that. We’re pretty protective of our cats, but I find that we’re able to pretty well assess each cat’s outdoor-safety skills based on knowing them. I think you are the best person to judge what will work for your cat.
I did also notice a couple of things you said that I think might make the move easier. One is that she’d be the only cat in your new home – one of our cats became much more indoors of her own accord when we moved to a house where she just had more space to get away from the other cats. That’s not to say that your cat will or should become indoor-only, but I think it might make staying in for any length of time a lot easier. The other is that it sounds like maybe you’ve already done some of the moving – the absolute hardest part of moving across state lines with 4 cats was dealing with all of them hiding on moving day. (Or I might have read your comment wrong – if you are packing boxes and your cat up all at once, I suggest patience and confining her early in the process.)
I second using Feliway (you can also get it in a spray-on form, which is great for carriers), and keeping her in the carrier the entire trip. We often try to have a human who’s not driving hang out with the cat(s) for car trips, but that’s not always possible, and I think the cats basically hate it no matter what anyway. The second hardest part of moving for us was the drive. Settling into the new place was really not that bad.
Oh, and on collars and microchips – I am a big fan of both. Microchips are great for when the cat inevitably pulls their collar off. What has worked best for us in terms of collars has been the clippy-type safety collars (rather than the sort of ball-shaped ones). The cats can take them off if they really want to, but they’re less likely to just fall off. I do find that if they do stay on they have to be checked periodically to make sure they haven’t fused shut :p . Collars with jingle-bells on them can give wildlife a slight edge from hunter cats, and collars with reflective strips can be great safety tools for cats who are out at night.
Best of luck on your move!
I’m not sure which comment you saw (there’s quite a few on here!) but she’s never moved before. She found us back in 2005 and has been indoor/outdoor since. She tends to sleep and eat inside, and spend the day outside if its nice. Sometimes in the summer she sleeps outside a couple nights at a time which worries me!
As for the car ride, my by-then-husband would most likely be making the drive with me, so one of us could hold her.
Is it expensive to get a cat microchipped?
I don’t know where you live, but here it cost 7 dollars to get our cats/doggie microchipped. Call around to different vets and see, some of them offer specials. Microchipping is a wonderful thing…I’m a shelter volunteer and I’ve seen many happy microchip-caused reunions that would not have happened otherwise.
I had an outdoor/indoor cat that we had to make indoor-only after he contracted FIV from a cat fight. He protested at first, but it was best for him. He frequently got into fights with other cats, so I didn’t want him spreading it around to others or getting infections with a compromised immune system. We did have to keep an eye on him when going in and out, because sometimes he would try to sneak out.
Every cat I’ve ever known will instinctively use a litter box, no training required. They like to bury their poo. I doubt you would have too much of a problem. If you’re worried I’d maybe keep him in one room for a couple of days with the box and make sure he uses it.
We got very lucky. We adopted our cat from the local humane society and he was born a stray. He was about 6 months old when we got him and extremely fiesty. We still have not declawed him for fear of kitty depression. I think he would prefer to be outside on his own but at age 3 now he is very used to having the run of the house. Most cats understand litter boxes and shouldn’t have a big problem learning to use it as they like to cover their messes with dirt. Sometimes we let Remy out on the porch (where we have coated wire put up for the dog) and he will sneak around like he’s hunting but he comes right back in when we call.
Did you move the cat? We are in the same situation moving our outdoor cat next week. He does not tolerate being confined.
No, we haven’t moved yet. My sister took my room at my parent’s house though, and the kitty had a hard time adjusting to going through the next room over, which only makes me worry more about moving her to a completely different location.
As for your kitty, would some tranquilizers from the vet work? Having him sleep the whole way sounds like it might be a little easier on all of you.
My family and I adopted a kitten from the shelter but that was 4 years ago. She is an indoor/outdoor cat. We are thinking of moving to a bigger apartment that actual has a really big yard! I’m also thinking of bringing the stray cat with me as well as I have kinda adopted him into the family plus I would hate to leave him behind since he was so skinny before we started to feed him! But I figured I would do this in small steps. We will bring our cat first into the new place and like she was as a kitten get her use to the house first, once she adjusted we smothered her paws in butter and let her go outside. I was really nervous letting her out the first time so I basically smothered the ground in butter so she knew which house it was. It worked! So now I’m hoping it’ll work again if we do decide to move! As for the stray cat he is mostly an outdoor cat so with him it’s just doing the butter technique and showing him where his food bowl will be.
Very interesting, thanks!
I moved with an outdoor cat, a total free spirit whom I inherited from neighbours who first neglected him and then left him behind when they moved. He had lived in the area for over 10 years and I had to move house with him. He had never been inside, from my knowledge. Anyway, I kept him in the laundry for two days, draped a blanket over a chair and put some bedding underneath it so he had somewhere to hide, and put grass on top of the kitty litter, which he actually used. I fed him and gave him lots of pats. He was relatively relaxed with that set up after a while. After two days he went outside in the morning and bolted under the house, where he stayed. I left food by the entrance, which was eaten in the early evening, and by 10pm he emerged for a pat. He seems to have accepted the new place as his own in a short time frame!
Giving a cat a place to hide works so well!
I honestly did it accidentally the first time- I was cat sitting, and they gave me a blanket from their house to have a familiar scent around. I draped it over a folding chair, thinking the cat would sleep on top of the chair. But he stayed in the little cat cave underneath.
I think creating a hiding place is worth it because almost all cats want to hide when in a new location, and this way you’ll still know where they are.
Good to know, thanks!
Yes, my cat was instantly more relaxed when he had a place to hide (first under the chair, and then under the house). They are my major tips – somewhere to hide if indoors, and grass on the kitty litter if puss is not used to a litter tray
Kirsten, have you moved yet? Please drop me an email, I am the Kitty Help Desk! I can help you… Plus I know ALL about moving outdoor cats, I have managed feral cat colonies and occasionally they have to be moved… there’s a whole protocol!
Let me know if you still need advice! Even if kitty is still at Moms… I can help with that too.
I have not. Life’s taken quite a few turns, but we’re finally ready to move into a place. However, we’ve decided to hold off on pets, at least for a while, until we can get on our feet a little more. Kitty will stay at my mom’s at least until we can afford a pet deposit and things like kitty food and litter.
How is kitty doing at moms? Is he going outside? Does he seem to have adjusted ok?
Kitty’s always lived at mom’s. She adopted us here 8 or 9 years ago. She seems to be her usual lazy self 🙂
Hi – I am hoping you can give me some cat advice. My elderly uncle started feeding a stray cat a few years ago. The original cat has since moved on or died, but her 2 offspring, 1 grand-kitten, and another young stray are still around. They fall somewhere between semi-feral and outdoor cats. My uncle recently moved to a nursing home. His house is on the market and, once sold, will probably be torn down. The area is becoming commercial, so there aren’t neighbors we can ask to look after the cats. I have been feeding the cats daily since he went into the nursing home, but I need to find a new place for them soon. All 4 of the cats will let me touch them when they are hungry and 2 of them are very friendly and will let me pick them up. I don’t know where to take them – I have considered adopting 1 or 2, but I have 2 terrier mixes who do not like cats, so I think it might be too much for all of our nerves to bring them to my house. I also feel bad about taking them to animal control. Even though it is a no-kill shelter, I think it would be horrible for these cats to live the rest of their lives in cages. Any ideas?
Hi June! Can you email me at juliekgk at yahoo? That will be easier to advise going forward!
#1) go on Alley Cat Allies page and find an advocate near you. That person will be able to give advice based on where you live and may have connections to local spay neuter groups etc. You want to look for Trap Neuter Return or TNR programs in your city. They know how to handle these situations. You’ll want to get these kitties fixed for their next step, and that’s where to do it.
#2) Could the kitties be outdoor cats at your home? If you own, this is a possibility. Or if you were to adopt them as indoor, there are many links online to “how to introduce cats to dogs” that could help them live in harmony.
#3) Scour your friends list (Facebook is good for this) and identify anyone with connections to horses, stables, barns, farms, garden centers, warehouses etc… These places sometimes are willing to take on a “working cat” or two. Mousers, essentially. Let them know the situation and see if anyone would be willing to help you by taking these cats. They’ll need to be fixed though to seal the deal. Post it on facebook (with a photo!), share it around, ask friends to share with their rural pals. See if your network can help.
Definitely connect with Alley Cat Allies (alleycat.org) and local TNR groups to get direction on services in your area. And email me if you want too!
we moved our once mean blood drawing feral cat (took 2-1/2 yrs to pet him, now he is a lover boy!). he lived outdoors w/a cat door in our basement window (so separate from our 2 indoor cats). only used the litterbox once in 3 years. initially TNR-ed when feral (was going to be killed by vets because too mean/feral) since then goes ballistic if confined, tried to be crate or wonders into a new room by mistake. w/determination o the day of our move, I banketed him & got him to the vet (2nd scheduled vet apt, 1st one no success). surprisingly they took off the leather gloves and he did good! (so terrified he didn’t move or hiss but peed poor thing). released him in the new house laundry room (coved the window w/cardboard so he wouldn’t freak out and try to claw his way though although not possible). closed the door and pluged in night lights. we also brought his old smelly basement sofa from the old house he hid under it the whole time and his original feeding/watering bowls and blankets. a day later success! he ate/drank and used the litterbox! every night I would lay on the sofa, he would come out scared low to the ground and lay on my chest (are old established routine in the old house I would watch tv w/him in this manner). 2 days later he did pee once all over the sofa so I ripped off all the cushioning and covered the frame w/comforters. 2 months later he is fully happy and integrated w/my 2 cats! that’s another story/process in itself. hope this story helps.
I have too mature cats a male and female and they keep gettin on the cars bec ause they are cold. My parents want to get rid of them. I dont know what to do. Plus im moving soon and I want to know how to move with two outdoor cats not just one
#1 take them with you! Don’t abandon them when you move, they wont know how to survive without you if you’ve been feeding them. Thanks for considering taking them along!
#2 Where do you live? Make them an easy shelter from the cold and that will keep them off the cars. You can make one from a shipping cooler or rubbermaid tub. As little as $15 total and super easy.
Check out Alley Cat Allies (www.alleycat.org) for a million tips on caring for, moving, and sheltering outdoor cats!!! They are the nation’s leading authority on caring for alley cats, so their site answers a lot of questions! Feel free to email me directly too, I can help with your questions and walk you through stuff, I’ve been doing this for years!
Thanks for caring for the little dudes.
Julie
juliekgk at yahoo
My parents’ cats won’t use the litterbox, but one of them was barred from going outside for a few days after some procedures at the vet, so we put dry leaves on top of the litter in the box, and that did the trick. Accident free.
I have somewhat of a different dilemna. We live in a very secluded area on 5 acres in a country setting and unfortunately many people believe if they drop their cats off here, they will live happily ever after. With that being said, my family has taken care of these 6 orphans and they have adopted us for over a year now and they are outdoor cats that we have spayed and chipped . We are now moving but only up the road. While I’m happy about the new place being in about the same type of setting, I worry they will return to our previous house. Hopefully I can take a few of the suggestions I’ve read here and apply them. I’m just concerned.
Yes, I realize that indoor cats live longer lives than outdoor cats. There’s just no way I would keep six cats indoors. I really wish people would be responsible and take their ‘unwanted’ cats to shelters. Do they not realize it’s cruel to leave them on their own regardless of their ability to hunt? I find this behavior plain stupid. That’s why the feral cat population is overwhelmingly high. Thanks in advance for any suggestions as to how I will be able to keep them relatively close. BTW, our new place has a “doggie door” attached to the garage but unfortunately my laundry room is there. I’m thinking it may be a good start to help them begin to adapt.
Sandy, do a google search on “relocating feral cats” and you’ll find some good info. Alley Cat Allies is a great place to start.
The #1 thing is to confine them at the new location for at LEAST 2 weeks. This can be in a cage, kennel, garage, shed, basement, whatever. Obvs make sure they are safe, have no escape routes, and are protected from temperature extremes and weather.
The 2-4 week confinement helps them re adjust their internal compass to the new location as “home/shelter/food” instead of trying to run back to the old place. They’ll be crabby for a few weeks being on lockdown but they’ll thank you in the end! And thanks for taking on other people’s cast aways and even taking them with you! You’re a true gem!
In Madison WI cats are not allowed outside except on a leash under penalty of the law! Nazis!
A stray cat showed up in our backyard a year ago and we started feeding it. After a few months, when she was comfortable around us to let us pet her, we catnapped her and took her to the vet to get spayed and vaccinated. She had to stay in the house for a few days after that to recover (we couldn’t keep her inside indefinitely because our indoor cats were not having it). We put a litter box in the room, something she had never even seen before let alone used, and she used it naturally with no problem whatsoever. So I wouldn’t worry about that aspect. Cats just get litter boxes.
Tryinig to find some guidance on a situation that has arisen at the worst time. I am a cat lover, but at present have building works, trying to sell flat and make a 6hr drive to move from a suburban UK gardens location to a totally different country situation. For the last few months I have been adopted by a huge tabby tom, which now sleeps in my flat (keeping a window pane from being replaced for him to have access via the conservatory and keeping my door ajar and freezing!) so it can have the freedom to range its territory at night. No-one near here will look after it and it seems to be adapted to humans, sleeping on allocated cover on the end of my camp bed, allowing limited pick-ups, and does not spray inside etc. I have taken it to the vet in a borrowed vets carrier, after familiarising it with placing its meals down the end but as soon as I shut the door it howled, scrummed violently and damaged its scarred nose in the process). He is king of the local patch and copes with foxes etc, but need to eventually take it to an alien environment with badgers, moles, sheep, sheep dogs, farm cats and cows. The drive and keeping him in will be extremely hard. He has never used a dirt box and hates being shut in. I am told that harnessing may help, but what best one which will not be fought off or possibly freaking him out prior to a fretful journey and losing his current “kingdom”. Has anyone had a similar experience or move/total change of environment (at least vehicle free)?
There really is no right answer. I transitioned my outdoor cat to indoor after a move and I know he is not as happy. He has gained weight and sleeps 24/7 unless I play with him. I got him a playmate and he tolerates the kitten. My place is small but a cat palace with hammocks, birds, 5 windows with huge ledges. He is so sweet to me even though he was pure feral 7 years ago. If I’m in a chair he’s on my lap. In the morning he doesn’t wake me but comes closer to my face as it approaches 8am. When making food in the AM he lets the kitten go ape shit and politely waits. But the odds are he’d be dead by now if left outside. Before I moved 2 years ago he was fighting another cat moving into his territory and crossing a 4 lane street to hunt in an inner city garden. It really is the choice between a life that is 10/10 excitement or a life that is a 2 out of 10 excitement but with good food and belly rubs. There’s a case to be made for both. Your guy will calm down. They all do. Do Not do the harness. It does far more harm than good. If it were an indoor cat from birth that’s different. The trouble is that you can’t ask the cat what he wants. Outdoor cats don’t die of old age. Ever. But if you’re going to keep it in you’ve gotta keep windows open even when it’s uncomfortable. They need to smell the air. They are prey animals. It helps them feel secure. I put tons of birdseed outside so there’s CatTV. I screwed up on the food. I cut it back but not enuf. He gained weight SO fast. I’d say take him with you. He’s an athlete retiring early. He’s had his time as a gladiator now time live a life of heat blankets and canned food. He will howl for a while. If it’s an apartment building I used to do 2am walks on different floors. The smells were interesting. Get all the toys you can but know it won’t be enough. Would you want to live an adrenaline filled life to 30 or retire at 20 and die at 90.